It's been awhile, so I thought I'd do a quick one. Not so much a new post but a ripoff of one of the most educational websites for authentic BBQ ribs, Amazingribs.com. Y'all know that true BBQ is one of my favorite things to make EVER!! Several of my Vegas friends have asked me what the difference is in all the different regional sauces and styles and this article explains it much better than I could ever attempt, check out Meatheads website and get edumacated on fantastic BBQ, I've used his techniques, adapted them to my own tastes and needs, and had fantastic results....enjoy and save me a rib.
-Rob
A taxonomy of American barbecue sauces
"Sometimes I eat ribs nekked, but if company's coming, I usually put on pants." Meathead (no, that's not me at right, but it could be)
To
most Americans, barbecue sauce is red and sweet and smokey and it comes
from a shelf near the ketchup. To those who travel and would rather
lunch in back of a rickety shack under a shade tree rather than under
the golden arches, barbecue sauce comes in a rainbow of colors and
flavors, and most tied to the area of origin and its ethnic roots.
Indeed, barbecue sauce is a cultural phenomenon.
In
the eastern half of North Carolina barbecue sauce is practically
transparent with cayenne pepper flakes that flurry in it like a snow
globe. In western half of the state it is practically pink going on
garnet from ketchup. In much of South Carolina it is yellow from
mustard, popular with German settlers. In many dingy brown joints of
Texas it is close to brown from meat drippings with big chunks of green
peppers and other flotsam in it. And in a corner of North Alabama it is
white with black pepper flecks. In Memphis the "sauce" often comes from a
shaker and is no more liquid than the paprika that is its backbone.
To
the cook, barbecue sauce is alchemy. It is downright fun to make.
Standing over the pot adding a dash of this, a pinch of that, taking a
taste, adjusting, tasting, and adding something else makes one feel like
a wizard. To add a personal flair to your next cookout, serve your
homemade sauce from a jelly jar and be prepared to take a few bows. If
you feel ambitious, serve your guests a choice of several sauces and
repeat what you read here.
Below are the 13 classic American barbecue sauces with links to recipes.
Saucing strategies.
Many sauces contain sugar and can burn quickly, so the secret is to
hold off on the sauce until the last 10 to 15 minutes. Click here for more on saucing strategies.
The regional American barbecue sauces
How long can you keep a barbecue sauce?
When
it comes to storing sauces, we have two concerns: Safety and flavor. We
don't want any microbes setting up housekeeping in our sauce, and we
want the flavors to remain bright and fresh.
Commercial
barbecue sauces usually have preservatives so they can keep in the
fridge for many months, even a year or more. Homemade sauces, at least
my recipe, have no added preservatives, per se.
The
good news is that vinegar, salt, sugars, liquid smoke, some spices, and
other common ingredients all have antimicrobial and preservative
properties, so they tend to help sauce safe from microbes and fresh
tasting for weeks, even months. As long as you keep your sauce
refrigerated, you should have little risk. Just make sure that when you
are done making the sauce you put it in a very clean glass bottle with a
tight fitting lid. I use Ball canning jars and lids and run them
through my dishwasher, but jelly jars and bottles from other condiments
work fine as long as they have tight lids. Just clean them well.
Also,
never dip a brush into sauce and then brush meat, contaminating it with
meat juices and microbes, and then put it back into the jar. Pour what
you need into a coffee cup and if there is leftover after cooking, toss
it.
Oxygen
and heat are the natural enemies of freshness, and we all have seen
ketchup turn black under the cap from oxidation. So don't let bottles of
sauce sit out on the dining table for long, and certainly not on the
shelf next to the grill. Again, pour what you need and chuck any unused
sauce out.
If
a sauce recipe calls for cooking onions, garlic, or spices in oil, then
expect shelf life to shorten a bit. Oil can go rancid with time,
especially animal fats such as bacon fat and butter. If you want to keep
it a long time use a vegetable oil rather than butter. That said, my KC
Classic sauce keeps many months and stays wonderful.
|
American
barbecue sauces owe their differences to their colonial histories and
can be divided in three basic categories, vinegar based, tomato based,
and mustard based. Then there are at least 11 distinct classic American
regional barbecue sauce styles and infinite variations (if we stretch
the definition of "sauce" to include Memphis dry rub). Click the links for my recipes if you want to make your own. If you want to taste examples of these styles but don't want to make them, click here for a list of my favorite commercial barbecue sauces.
1) Kansas City Sweet Sauce
The
first Kansas City barbecue sauces were hot, probably mostly vinegar and
pepper, like the sauces of the Carolinas (below). Evidence is that this
was the case for Henry Perry's sauce, and he started it all in 1907 in
the city that is best known for barbecue in the world.
The
style has evolved to become the iconic classic rich red, tomato-based,
sweet-tart sauce with molasses or brown sugar and balanced with the
tartness of vinegar. Many have liquid smoke added to help create that
outdoor flavor for folks who cannot cook outdoors. They are by far the
most popular in the nation and imitated around the country. But beware:
Most commercial sauces are waaaaaay too sweet. If you pick up a bottle
in the grocery and sugar or high fructose corn syrup are the first
ingredients on the label, put it down. KC sauces are, if you study their
content lists, is really just amped up ketchup, and many of us love it
on fries and burgers instead of ketchup.
KC sauces don't penetrate the meat well, and sit on top like frosting. But recipes like my KC Classic,
while not the same as KC Masterpiece, is mighty tasty and caramelizes
beautifully over a hot fire making a crisp coat. They also burn easily,
so coat your meat no sooner than 10 minutes before serving. If this is
your favorite sauce, make sure you read my article on saucing strategies.
Now that I've defined the genre, let me point out an important exception to the rule: Arthur Bryant's Original Barbeque Sauce.
Arthur Bryant's has been one of the iconic barbecue joints since 1930,
perhaps the most holy of them all in the city that means barbecue more
than any other, and they have been making a tomato based sauce that is
thick, intense, with a solid black pepper and garlic theme. No
noticeable sweetness or liquid smoke flavor. Nada. This is probably
because the Arthur and Charlie Bryant were disciples of Perry. Not sure
why, but they keep a five gallon carboy of the stuff on display in their
front window (above).
2) South Carolina Mustard Sauce
Nowhere
are there more regional sauce preferences than in the Carolinas where
barbecue is not chicken, burgers, hot dogs, or even ribs. Barbecue is
pork, often whole hog, cooked low and slow, chopped or pulled into
succulent shards, mixed with sauce, and served either in a pile on a
plate or on a bun, often crowned with cole slaw.
The
most distinctive sauce, and by far my fave, is the mustard based sauce
found in barbecue joints from Columbia to Charleston. Mustard and pork
go together like peanut butter and jelly. Early German immigrants in
South Carolina knew this and the names of many of the best barbecue
joints that serve mustard sauce have German names, like Shealy,
Sweatman, Meyer, and Zeigler. The classic SC mustard sauces are a runny
mix of yellow mustard, vinegar, sugar, and spices. Simple but very
effective. There are also pockets of Georgia where the mustard sauce has
taken hold. They are especially good on pulled pork. I offer two
recipes, my South Carolina Mustard Sauce is the classic while my personal riff on the theme, Grownup Mustard Sauce, is a more complex, herbal variation on the theme.
3) East Carolina Mop-Sauce
On
the coast of North and South Carolina, a.k.a. "East Carolina" or the
"Low Country", the philosophy is "Whole hog and keep the mustard for
your hot dogs and the ketchup for your fries." The African slaves of the
Scottish settlers in the region pioneered American barbecue and their
simple sauces were plain a kiss of hot pepper flakes and ground black
pepper in vinegar. And so they remain today, where the sauce is used
both as a mop or baste on the meat while it is cooking, and then as a
finishing sauce at tableside. Thin and piquant, they are designed to
penetrate the meat, not just sit on top as thicker ketchup and mustard
sauces do. They do a great job of cutting the fat in lipid-laced pork.
There is little or no sugar in the mix, so your kids will hate it. Try
my recipe for East Carolina Kiss & Vinegar
on just a bit of your chopped pork before your pour it over the whole
sandwich, and if don't like it, send the leftovers to me.
4) Lexington Dip (a.k.a. Western Carolina or Piedmont Dip)
In
Lexington, NC, and in the "Piedmont" hilly areas of the western
Carolinas, they prefer to make their barbecue from the pig's shoulder, a
rich flavorful clod of meat. In North Carolina, otherwise kindly old
men have been moved to fisticuffs over the question of whether barbecue
is properly made from whole hog or shoulder. In Lexington and west, they
often call their mop-sauce "dip". It is vinegar and pepper based, a lot
like the East Carolina mop-sauce, but laced with a hint of tomato sauce
or ketchup added, not a lot. The red stuff helps tame the fierceness of
the vinegar a bit, and the hint of sweetness counterbalances the
acidity. I prefer my recipe for Lexington Dip slightly to the East Carolina style.
There
is one other popular style in the Carolinas. In western South Carolina
on the Georgia border, the locals are partial to a ketchup based sauce
similar to Kansas City sauce.
5) Texas Mop-Sauce
In
Texas they barbecue pork and beef ribs, pulled pork, chicken, mutton,
goat, and sausage they call "hot guts", but the star of the Lone Star
State is beef brisket,
an impossibly tough cut from the chest area that is magically converted
to buttah-like tenderness with 12 to 18 hours of low and slow smoke
roasting.
There are three important culinary influences on Texas barbecue:
1) European immigrants who brought expertise in smoking meats, especially Germans, Czechs, and Hungarians
2) freed slaves from the Southeast, and
3) Mexicans (Texas was, after all, a part of Mexico, and its cuisine leans heavily on Spanish, Mayan, and Aztec cultures).
1) European immigrants who brought expertise in smoking meats, especially Germans, Czechs, and Hungarians
2) freed slaves from the Southeast, and
3) Mexicans (Texas was, after all, a part of Mexico, and its cuisine leans heavily on Spanish, Mayan, and Aztec cultures).
The
old-fashioned classic Texas sauces were fashioned to complement beef
brisket first and they were not very sweet. Nowadays they have been
influenced by the popularity of Kansas City sauces, and have gotten
redder and sweeter.
Some
traditional Texas pitmasters use their sauce as both a mop to cool and
moisten the meat during direct cooking, and as an optional finishing
sauce. Most common are thin, tart mops that are flavored with vinegar,
American chili powder or ancho powder, lots of black pepper, cumin, hot
sauce, fresh onion, and only a touch of ketchup.
Some
of the best sauces have beef drippings, and therefore cannot be
bottled. As a result, the stuff served in the traditional old
restaurants is vastly different than the stuff sold in bottle. In
hallowed joints like Cooper's, in Llano, they often resemble a thin
tomato soup with a beef stock base. They penetrate the meat easily
rather than sit on top. I prefer them on brisket, not pork. In this
picture, the bottled sauce sold at Cooper's is poured into a large pot
and is kept warm on the holding pit. Trimmings are tossed in the pot,
and when you order, if you ask for sauce, the meat is dipped in the pot.
It tastes a LOT different than the bottled sauce served on the tables.
Before the meat is cooked, it is seasoned with a Texas Dry Rub,
formulated for brisket with little or no sugar, lots of black pepper,
and so they are very different from Memphis and most other rubs. Try my Texas Mop-Sauce for a taste of a real old-fashioned hard to find anymore down on the ranch Texas barbecue mop and sauce.
6) Alabama White Sauce
Developed
for chicken by Big Bob Gibson's Bar-B-Q in Decatur, Alabama, this
mayonnaise and vinegar sauce has become so well known among barbecue
fans that it has generated many admirers and a handful of imitators. I
don't recommend it for pork, and not everyone likes it on chicken, but
it is so popular in Alabama it must be considered a regional classic.
Chris Lilly (above), of Big Bob's says my attempt to reverse engineer
his Alabama White Sauce is "scary close".
7) Kentucky Black Barbecue Sauce and Dip
The
most obscure of the regional sauces because it can be found in only a
small area of Western Kentucky just east of Louisville around Owensboro,
this fascinating blend is mostly distilled white vinegar and Worcestershire sauce.
It is designed to go with the specialty of the region, slow smoked
mutton (mature lamb), but it is also used on chicken and other meats. It
is used as a baste on the pit, and then as a finishing sauce. Some
places, like the Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, the most famous of them all, have two slightly different recipes, one for basting, and one for serving. My Sunlite Kentucky Black Barbecue Sauce & Dip For Lamb And Mutton is both a baste and finishing sauce, and frankly, I think it is better than the Moonlite. Just sayin.
8) Tennessee Whiskey Sauce
The
Jack Daniel's World Championship Invitational Barbecue is considered by
many to be the most prestigious competition in the world. As do many
competitions, they have a sauce tasting, but theirs has a twist: Jack
Daniels whiskey must be in the blend. Well, just as they planned it,
whiskey-laced sauces have spread across the nation.
There are so many that I think it must be considered a legitimate category of barbecue sauce. My recipe for Tennessee Hollerin' Whiskey Sauce
is named after the hollow, a lowland by the creek in which it was
invented, this rich sauce has a kick, and when you taste it you'll bend
over and holler "Kick me!" The secret: Whiskey concentrate.
9) Louisiana Hot Sauce
In
Louisiana anything that can be put on a grill is called barbecue, from
fish to crawfish to nutria (kinda like a rat). The first bottled hot
sauces came out of Louisiana, home of Tabasco Sauce and in Louisiana,
hot sauce goes on everything. Nowadays there are lots of great hot and
spicy barbecue sauces on the market. Some just burn from capsaicin (the active ingredient in chile peppers),
but the best are blends of several different kinds of heat, among them:
Black pepper, white pepper, mustard, wasabi, several different kinds of
chiles, plus an underlying flavor of the meat of the chile pepper. The
heat is then usually tempered with tomato sauce, and often countered
with sweetness. Bayou Bite,
my mildish version of a Louisiana barbecue sauce recipe is a wonderful
blend of sweet and hot peppers used as a finishing sauce, after the meat
is cooked, or as a dipping sauce served with the meat. Even if you
don't like hot stuff, you really should try this one.
10) Memphis Dry Rub
Memphis
is second only to Kansas City as a town of barbecue renown. Ribs and
pulled pork are the stars, although their local special, perhaps best
called their local oddity, is barbecue spaghetti. No, they don't put the
pasta on the pit, it's just doused with barbecue sauce.
Alas,
there is no distinctive indigenous Memphis sauce style. Around the
nation a lot of pit stops call their sauce Memphis style, but they're
kidding themselves and us. In fact, many Memphis purists prefer their
ribs "dry" with only a spice rub. A restaurant's gotta have confidence
in its meat to serve it with spices only and no sauce. Many Memphis
restaurants have bowed to public demand and now offer a choice: Dry or
wet, with wet usually meaning a Kansas City-style tomato-based sauce
perhaps a bit thinner, more vinegary.
Memphis
dry rubs are usually paprika based, and typical ingredients are salt,
garlic, onion, black pepper, American chili powder, and oregano. Meathead's Memphis Dust is a very versatile recipe perfect for pork, but readers have told me they love it on everything from turkey to salmon.
Perhaps
the most revered dry ribs are served at Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous
(called "The Vous" by some of the locals). There are a lot of recipes on
the internet that the owners have palmed off on gullible media. They
aren't close. I've reversed engineered Rendezvous-style Memphis Dry Rub (that's the Vous above), and my recipe is a LOT closer to the real deal.
11) Florida Smoked Fish Sauce
Indigenous Barbecue in Florida is heavily influenced by the original Caribbean Indian barbacoa:
Smoked and grilled fish. Mullet, a vegan fish that can only be caught
by net in the Gulf of Mexico is the most traditional. It is not a great
tasting fish for grilling or other conventional preps, but it soars when
smoked. The skin turns an irridescent gold, the loin meat on the back
alongside the spine, is delicate and creamy if it is not oversmoked.
There are only a handful of places, mostly on the Gulf Coast, that still
smoke mullet the old fashioned way, butterflied and seasoned with a
flavorful rub, often Old Bay Seasoning straight from the can, often the
same seasoning mix they use in crab boils.
Also
popular is the smoked mullet spread, sometimes called fish salad, as in
tuna salad, made from flaked smoked mullet mixed with mayo or cream
cheese or both. It is served on crackers and sandwiches. They smoke
other fish in Florida, but they are wise enough to know that fresh local
fish don't need smoke, they are best when simply grilled with salt,
pepper, and maybe some butter or olive oil.
Both smoked and grilled fish in Florida are served with lemon wedges and perhaps tartar sauce,
based on mayo, pickle relish, and other goodies (naturally mine has the
other goodies in it). Many folks eat the mullet like they eat ribs in
Memphis, with rub only, no sauce. At right, that's Mark Gullet smoking
mullet at the wonderful Star Fish Company Seafood Market in Cortez, FL, between St. Pete and Bradenton. The sign in his smokehouse says Mullet by Gullet.
12) Sweet Glazes
A
lot of great sauces are just a mix of sweetener, vinegar, and spices.
The sweetener is usually brown sugar and/or molasses, and occasionally
maple syrup, which, although wonderful, is too expensive for most
commercial sauces. Glazes are shiny so they make the meat glisten, and
they are sweet/sour so they complement the pork and cut the fat. In New
Mexico there's a legendary pit stop where diners come out glazed over
with Danny Gaulden's Legendary Glaze and he has been generous enough to publish the recipe. Jazzy Hog Competition Barbecue Glaze is inspired by the most popular sauce on the competition barbecue circuit, Blues Hog Barbecue Sauce. Another fave is Chris Lilly's Spiced Apricot Sauce,
a killer glaze for ham created by the Executive Chef of Big Bob Gibson
Bar-B-Q in Decatur Alabama, and one of the best barbecue cooks I've ever
known. He too, has shared his recipe.
13) Flavored Sauces
Modern
chefs are nothing if not creative, and just about anything you can
imagine is used to make barbecue sauces. These sauces rarely have
regional logic. There are a number of wonderful sauces that start out as
start out as basic tomato based barbecue sauces and then are amped up
with fruits, jams, and jellies as flavorizers and sweeteners. Raspberry,
cherry, and apple are common. The work great with ribs. Eve's KC Pig Paint
is a recipe of mine, a rich, sweet, Kansas City-style tomato-based
sauce, with a secret ingredient from the Garden of Eden. Long ago I
remember tasting a barbecue sauce tinged with cocoa, so I created my own
Chocolate Chile Barbecue Sauce recipe.